SHOWstudio: Nick Knight, Ming Xi, Couture 2011, Philip Treacy, Millie Brown, Hannah Martin, Tricky and more

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	Newsletter | 30 March 2011
CURRENT MING XI - COUTURE 2011
Fashion's love affair with Asia, its traditions both old and newly cemented, has held an undeniable presence on the catwalks as of late. From 11:00 GMT tomorrow, Nick Knight takes on the task of applying this paradigm to the Spring/Summer 2011 Couture collections, capturing Shanghai-born model Ming Xi for V magazine in an exclusive two-day live shoot. Styled by Jonathan Kaye, this shoot presents a unique opportunity to see this couture season up close and personal, accompanied by footage of fashion director Alexander Fury providing further analysis on the exceptional level of detail in garments from Jean Paul Gaultier, Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci, Valentino and John Galliano for Christian Dior. Tune in tomorrow from 11:00 GMT for all the action from the set! [more]
CURRENT COLLECTIONS: NEW YORK, LONDON, MILAN, PARIS
Having now the luxury of distance from the lightening paced A/W 2011 season, fashion director Alexander Fury delivers his Collections round-up reports for New York, London, Milan and Paris womenswear. These deliberations approach the season city-by-city from a full 360-degree view, while also diving into the depths of particular standout collections in detail; from Proezna Schouler's exploration of American craft traditions, across the pond to Giles Deacon's offerings of forbidding fetish, south to Raf Simons' re-imagining of mid-century haute couture at Jil Sander and culminating with the incredible definition of fashion performance offered up at Mugler under Nicola Formichetti. With the collections now fully dissected and digested, we can't help but be even more excited for the A/W 2011 woman to take to the streets. New York and London have launched, with the definitive word on Milan and Paris to come later this week. Click here to read New York Collections Round-Up Click here to read London Collections Round-Up [more]
COMING UP IN FASHION, ALICE HAWKINS
The next installment in our In Fashion interview series revisits Fashion Director Alexander Fury's face time with the celebrated British photographer and image-maker Alice Hawkins.  Known for her audacious style both in front and behind the lens, Hawkins has been one of the fashion industry's fastest rising stars. Since receiving her degree from Camberwell College of Art in 2002, she was scooped up first by i-D magazine, moving quickly up the ranks to shoot stories for Pop, Russian Vogue, Harper's Bazaar (US) and The Independent Magazine, in addition to being a regular SHOWstudio.com contributor.   In Fashion, Alice Hawkins launches next week on SHOWstudio.com
CURRENT LIVESTUDIO - PHILIP TREACY AND MILLIE BROWN
With news of our next exhibition at SHOWstudio Shop soon to be announced, archived video edits from two previous exhibitions have launched here on SHOWstudio.com. A compliment to our exhibition Headdress, celebrated milliner and five times British Accessory Designer of the Year Philip Treacy held court in the LiveStudio here on Bruton Place, allowing us the opportunity to witness his uncompromised talent in motion. The resulting couture confection was described by Treacy as 'a feather salad', and was every bit in tune with his high sense of whimsy. From watching 'a feather salad' in preparation, we moved next to Millie Brown's visceral exploration of the concept of abject art in which she literally vomits the rainbow. The edited footage now featured in our LiveStudio catches Brown, vomiting a visual array to the melodic offerings of her collaborators, opera singers Patricia Hammond and Zita Syme. Our video edit of these performances are now available for you to visually digest in our LiveStudio. [more]
FROM THE SHOP THE COMTE'S PYRAMID RING, 2011
Critically acclaimed London jeweller Hannah Martin has revealed her most recent collection - The Man Who Knows Everything - and SHOWstudio Shop has four pieces exclusively available from the dazzling collection. The Comte’s Pyramid Ring, Shaman’s Triangle Simplet Signet, Shaman’s Triangle Pavé Cufflinks and The Burning Triangle of St. Germain are all part of a limited edition and each creation is crafted from precious jewels - Rubies and Orange Sapphires to name but a few. Martin has marked her collection with an interactive, site-specific installation at London's Dover Street Market, a significant fashion film, and an exceptionally unique virtual reality experience. Certainly an extraordinary way to experience the collision of ancient minerals and the digital future… [more]
FROM THE ARCHIVE INTERVIEW - STEVE MCQUEEN/TRICKY
In a glimpse back to SHOWstudio.com's first months up and running, this week's selected project from the archive is the edited footage of Turner Prize winning experimental multi-media artist Steve McQueen's conversation with the Bristol bred and now infamous musician and actor Tricky. From his meteoric rise and work with Massive Attack, to his move to New York, the future and beyond, McQueen's video edit of the interview presents itself to Tricky as the ultimate gift from a true fan. [more]
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SHOWstudio: Yohji Yamamoto, Marc Ascoli, Nick Knight, Peter Saville, Millie Brown, Hannah Martin, Dover Street Market, Philip Treacy, Naomi Campbell, haute couture and more

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	Newsletter | 23 March 2011
CURRENT IN CONVERSATION WITH YOHJI YAMAMOTO
In celebration of Yohji Yamamoto's first UK solo exhibition, now open to the public at London's Victoria and Albert Museum, SHOWstudio.com has launched a two-part 'In Conversation' project to examine Yamamoto's visionary thirty-year career. Art director Marc Ascoli, photographer Nick Knight and graphic designer Peter Saville are captured in conversation with curator Magda Keaney discussing their collaboration with Yamamoto; while Yohji Yamamoto himself is recorded in conversation with SHOWstudio.com fashion director Alexander Fury. From his motivations to enter design school, to his first Paris shows, through to his most recent runway outing for A/W 2011, this in-depth conversation reveals Yohji Yamamoto open and honest about his current views on fashion both past, present, and future, while our discussion panel offer a unique perspective on their seminal work with the designer. [more]
CURRENT LIVE STUDIO: MILLIE BROWN
This week SHOWstudio.com launches the edited footage of performance artist Millie Brown's LiveStudio session. Initially broadcast as part of the Inside/Out exhibition at SHOWstudio Shop and explored the concept of abject art, this particular LiveStudio was the result of a collaboration between Brown and opera singers Patricia Hammond and Zita Syme. Artist enthusiasts will be happy to know that no artists were in fact harmed during the making of this film – it is coloured milk that Millie used in her inaugural attempt to vomit a rainbow-like spectrum on canvas to Hammond and Syme's harmonious refrains. A sight not to be missed, this footage presents a chance to revisit Millie Brown's Bruton Place takeover in the SHOWstudio.com archives. [more]
CURRNT THE MAN WHO KNOWS EVERYTHING
Inspired by a Voltaire quote – 'The man who knows everything and never dies' – and a fictional alchemist, the Comte de Saint Germain, London-based jewellery designer Hannah Martin has collaborated with designer Moritz Waldemeyer to produce a unique installation in the ground-floor windows of Dover Street Market interpreting her latest collection. The installation takes direct cue from the collection's most iconic piece, 'Euphoria of Lights – the Comte's Pyramid Ring', by employing a three-sided twelve-foot DuPont™ Corian® obelisk strung with lasers. A three-dimensional wonder in its real life form, the Comte's Pyramid Ring takes on new dimensions in a fashion film created by Ian Rodney Woolridge further exploring the collection's driving narratives, while an exclusive application designed by Holition aims to redefine luxury shopping by allowing the ring to be tried on by Martin's followers far and wide via augmented reality, available to access via SHOWstudio.com. However, for those inevitably too tempted by the real thing, we also offer four pieces of Martin's for sale through SHOWstudio Shop. [more]
FROM THE SHOP PHILIP TREACY - FEATHERED
With the Royal Wedding just weeks away, the bride-to-be has commissioned world-renowned milliner Philip Treacy to design wedding hats for members of the royal family. Here at SHOWstudio, we are one step ahead. Treacy crafted his feathered headpiece a year ago and with Spring officially in the air (not to mention wedding fever), there has been no better time to indulge in the one-of-a-kind head embellishment available in the SHOWstudio Shop. The headpiece - which is constructed upon a bed of delicately placed peacock feathers - is an interwoven flourish that clusters together specifically cut ostrich feathers. Not only can you beat the future Queen to the millinery post but, you can watch Treacy himself create the hat from scratch in our LiveStudio footage that captured the man of the moment produce his masterpiece. [more]
FROM THE ARCHIVE NAOMI
Following last week's launch of our Naomi Campbell: Statuesque project, this week SHOWstudio.com daydreams back to January 2007 and Nick Knight's stunning visual exploration of this most super of Supermodels in the finest Parisian haute couture. Captured for the Summer 2007 issue of V magazine, Naomi features a selection of extraordinary confections crafted by Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel, Jean Paul Gaultier, Christian Lacroix and John Galliano for Christian Dior, works of fashion art rendered, fittingly, as masterpieces under the painterly lens of Knight. [more]
LATEST ENTRIES BLOG
JASON WU, IN FASHION; LIVE STREAM IS NOW OVER Hopefully you caught some of our live interview with with Jason Wu. Come back to see the edited film due to be launched in our In Fashion series next month. [more]
COLLECTIONS: New York A/W 2011 Round-Up Now Published! What when why wear: having thoroughly deliberated, dissected and digested the offerings of fashion's great and (not so) good for A/W 2011 [more]
NAOMI CAMBELL: STATUESQUE Statuesque is the word for Naomi Campbell, an icon of our time who, it seems, can inflame opinion in any observer. Statuesque is also the word for 'Naomi' [more]
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SHOWstudio: Naomi Campbell, Yohji Yamamoto, Jason Wu, Philip Treacy, Hannah Martin and more

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	Newsletter | 16 March 2011
CURRENT NAOMI CAMPBELL: STATUESQUE
Statuesque is the word for Naomi Campbell, an icon of our time who, it seems, can inflame opinion in any observer. Statuesque is also the word for 'Naomi' - Nick Knight's 25-foot interactive sculpture that formed the centrepiece of the exhibition SHOWstudio: Fashion Revolution at London's Somerset House. Our latest project fully documents each and every step behind the creation of this super-sized monolith to a true Supermodel, including scanning Naomi's legendary body and refashioning her as a three-dimensional form. In her final installation - as interactive exhibit as part of SHOWstudio: Fashion Revolution - Campbell's recreated form was utilised by exhibition goers and online viewers as a global conduit for communication, illustrated here by Nick Knight's narrated tour of the piece, and also by a ten-minute extract taken from three months of live footage showing Naomi dressed and undressed by layers of projected 'graffiti'. [more]
CURRENT LIVE STUDIO: PHILIP TREACY
A rare opportunity to see a virtuoso craftsman and one of fashion's true originals in action, this week we launch our video edit of Philip Treacy's residency in our LiveStudio. The milliner par excellence visited our Bruton Place studio to create 'Feathered', a 'feather salad' crafted by his own hand to be included in our SHOWstudio Shop headdress exhibition. Edited from footage captured during Treacy's one-day live session, our exclusive video offers a unique insight into an award-winning creative at work. [more]
COMING UP IN CONVERSATION WITH YOHJI YAMAMOTO
Alongside the new exhibition Yohji Yamamoto which opened at London's Victoria and Albert Museum last week, we launch a two-stage project profiling the ground-breaking Japanese designer. The first film captures a conversation between long-term Yamamoto collaborators - photographer Nick Knight, art director Marc Ascoli and graphic designer Peter Saville - discussing their collective work on the seminal Yohji Yamamoto advertising imagery and catalogues of the 1980s. The second step, launching this Friday, showcases a rare interview with Yamamoto himself discussing his three decades of work in the rococo enclaves of the Norfolk Music Room at the Victoria and Albert Museum.
COMING UP THE MAN WHO KNOWS EVERYTHING
A Voltaire quote - 'The man who knows everything and never dies' - and a fictional 400-year old alchemist inspired London jeweller Hannah Martin's latest collection. However, the interpretation of the collection is resolutely modern: taking over Dover Street Market for a unique installation fusing real-world with web-based interfaces showcased exclusively online at SHOWstudio.com The final project will be unveiled at 19:00 GMT on Thursday 17 March 2011
COMING UP IN FASHION, JASON WU - LIVE
The next instalment of our In Fashion series profiles CFDA award-winning New York designer Jason Wu. Wu has firmly established his name as a designer of classically refined tailoring and dresses modernised with a classic American sportswear attitude - an approach that has won international plaudits, and has awarded him the patronage of none other than America's First Lady, Michelle Obama. Following his much-acclaimed Autumn/Winter 2011 show, Wu makes a rare trip to London and will be in conversation with Fashion Director Alexander Fury on Tuesday 22 March from 15:00 GMT
FROM THE SHOP Luna Tee, 2010
With Spring just around the corner, Mother of Pearl’s collaboration with the contemporary visual artist Jim Lambie is the perfect way to warm up from the Winter months. Having been exhibited in our Florist show, the limited-edition Luna Tee is available just in time for the sun to come out and as a major piece from the Spring/Summer 2011 collection, the floral Crepe de Chine is conceptually wearable art. Shaped by an ever-present contrast - a looming, sharp black figure is concealed by the gentle brushstrokes of flowers to create this exclusive and stunning tee. [more]
FROM THE ARCHIVE DESIGN_DOWNLOAD: YOHJI YAMAMOTO
In light of the Yohji Yamamoto retrospectives taking place at London's Victoria and Albert Museum and the Wapping Project, examining 30 years of masterful fashion innovation, the time felt perfect to re-examine the design_download pattern Yamamoto exclusively offered to SHOWstudio.com viewers in 2002. Described enigmatically as 'a certain garment' and with equally open instructions for the pattern's construction, Yamamoto invites the public to become a creative collaborator in realising the final garment. If you're hankering after a more visual distillation of Yamamoto's ideal, a gallery of viewer images show their own made-up versions of the pattern - alongside Nick Knight's definitive version of the Yohji original. [more]
LATEST ENTRIES Blog
Sam McKnight: backstage at Chanel As well as creating a look that allowed the models to walk through an apocalypse with the kind of chic nonchalance that only a Chanel girl can, Sam McKnight found time to film scenes from backstage and on the set before the Chanel A/W 2011 show last week for SHOWstudio.com. [more]
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SHOWstudio: AW 2011 Collections, Gareth Pugh, Prada, Mary Katrantzou, Proenza Schouler, Sussie Bubble, Sam McKnight, Victor & Rolf and more

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	Newsletter | 10 March 2011
CURRENT COLLECTIONS: PARIS WOMENSWEAR A/W 2011
Paris: the crowning glory to the A/W 2011 collections - shows from Parisian powerhouses Yves Saint Laurent, Chanel and Louis Vuitton and avant-garde statements from Rick Owens, Gareth Pugh and Mugler closing the season in style. As always, Paris both consolidated the existing mood of the season, and kick-started a few of its own - fittingly enough, this season French Chic was the order of the day chez Rochas, Nina Ricci etc all, as illustrated via our live image uploads from NOWFASHION.com and a barrage of blogs and tweets. [more]
CURRENT COLLECTIONS: MILAN WOMENSWEAR AW/11
The Milan A/W 2011 Collections proved once again that Italians are the go-tos for luxury heritage brands. Fashion Director Alexander Fury’s in-depth coverage, accompanied once again by images from NOWFASHION.com,  brought us front row and backstage as some of fashion's heavy hitters took center stage. Miuccia Prada’s love of perverse took another turn, reviving the twenties via the sixties and reinventing traditional luxury textures for the twenty-first century; and Raf Simons’ continued his love affair with mid-century couture, taking inspiration from Balenciaga’s structured silhouettes for a stellar Jil Sander show. [more]
CURRENT COLLECTIONS: LONDON WOMENSWEAR AW/11
A sense of hometown pride descended upon us here at SHOWstudio.com as the London A/W 2011 Collections coverage began back in February. The feeling was difficult to avoid with the city ripe as ever with talent both young and old, and those yet to be discovered, with our Fashion Director Alexander Fury at the helm. This season SHOWstudio.com introduced Collection Audio reports; live, unedited and off-the-cuff, these reports were inspired by Carmel Snow’s post-war radio reports which introduced the name Balenciaga to the United States and gave Dior’s New Look its iconic moniker. Capping off the London Collections were Hywel Davies’ in-depth reports from London's Menswear Day [more]
CURRENT COLLECTIONS: NEW YORK WOMENSWEAR A/W 2011
It's hard to believe that it has only been a matter of weeks since our marathon coverage of the A/W 2011 womenswear Collections began, kicking off on the other side of the pond in New York City. Braving the biting cold weather on our behalf were SHOWstudio.com contributing fashion writers Lindsay Sammon and Indigo Clarke, complimented by guest blogger Susanna Lau of Style Bubble’s sartorial critiques and images from NowFashion.com. New York certainly gave fashion a running start to the A/W 2011 season. [more]
COLLECTIONS Susie Bubble, Guest Blogger
Returning for her second season as contributing fashion writer for SHOWstudio.com’s Collections coverage, Susanna Lau waxes lyrical on her observations from the frontline of the New York A/W 2011 show season. A fashion media renegade better known as Susie Bubble of the blog Style Bubble, Lau’s hand in the blog revolution makes her an exciting addition to the SHOWstudio in-depth reportage; first getting her knit kicks at Tess Giberson in New York, then bringing us straight to Canadian Jeremy Laing, Ecco Domani Award winning lingerie label The Lake and Stars, and heavy hitters such as Thom Browne and Thakoon. Lau leaves no stone unturned as she makes her way through SHOWstudio’s first stop on the A/W 2011 Collections schedule tour de force.
COLLECTIONS Sam McKnight, Backstage Blogger
World renowned hair stylist Sam McKnight’s work has a proven track record of redefining the ideals of modern glamor season after season: a regular contributor to British Vogue and other celebrated international publications for over three decades, and founder of our modern idea of a the 'session stylist’. A/W 2011 proved no different with his creative direction sculpting catwalk creations for Balmain, DSquared2 and Fendi, to name a few. SHOWstudio.com had the privilege of bearing witness to all of the magic via McKnight’s exclusive backstage video reports - up close and personal with Freja, Anja, and other mannequins extraordinaire as they are primped and prepped moments before they took to the catwalk.
FROM THE SHOP BEDTIME STORY, 2005
Fashion enables women to dream and arguably, Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren are responsible for more dreams than most. With their fantastical fusions of haute couture and high concept, they have been a highlight of the Paris Fashion Week schedules since the nineties. For A/W 2005, Viktor & Rolf gave a new interpretation to the idea of 'bedclothes', reinterpreting duvets, eiderdowns and blankets as the very height of chic - with Tori Amos crooning background lullabies for good measure - which made this collection the perfect fashion inclusion to the latest SHOWstudio Shop exhibition, To Bed. V&R’s garment of choice for our show? A chic fringed dress crafted from a single twisted sheet of silk - albeit crowned with an extravagant padded neckpiece of tasseled pillows. [more]
LATEST ENTRIES BLOG
COLLECTIONS Paris Fashion Week: Givenchy's panthers, Hermes' falcons, and Giles Deacon's Big Fat Gypsy Wedding It's interesting to look through the collections I didn't see first hand and gauge the reactions from other members of the press. [more]
COLLECTIONS Paris Fashion Week: Alexander McQueen Collections report: The three hallmarks of the late Lee Alexander McQueen were razor-sharp tailoring, romance, and drama. [more]
COLLECTIONS Paris Fashion Week: Louis Vuitton A fetish-fest at this morning's Louis Vuitton show. [more]
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