SHOWstudio: Nailed, Marian Newman, Judy Blame, Practice to Deceive, Ruth Hogben, Agent Provocateur, Kate Moss and more

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Newsletter | 27 April 2011
COMING UP
NAILED RE-STREAM
Nailing down the very best of the spring/summer season, last week manicure maestro Marian Newman took up residence with trusted assistants, a rainbow of polish and several thousand acrylic tips to reinterpret this seasons finest fashions in miniature. Less nail art than a masterpiece at your fingertips, Newman reworked the inspirations behind SHOWstudio.com's choice of seven landmark collections - Emanuel Ungaro, John Galliano, Mary Katrantzou, Prada, Richard Nicoll, Rodarte and Versace - presented against key pieces from the collections, filmed by Nick Knight and captured in the attitudes and affectations of fashion's favourite dirty little habit, smoking.

If you missed any of the action, we will be re-streaming the entire Nailed experience tomorrow, Thursday 28 April, from 18:00 BST / 10:00 PST - a chance to catch every unedited moment of this one-off shoot.
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CURRENT
LIVESTUDIO - JUDY BLAME
Our latest LiveStudio process film documents the one-day residency of legendary British accessory designer, stylist and all-round creative catalyst Judy Blame. Inspired by the theme of our 2010 SHOWstudio Shop exhibition Blackwhite, Blame crafted a monochrome array of artefacts in his trademark postmodern bricolage style - oft-imitated but never equalled. Edited from hours of footage, and including Blame's dialogue with the SHOWstudio.com viewers via our Q&A, this film offers a unique glimpse inside the febrile mind of one of Britain's most celebrated fashion talents. [more]
CURRENT
PRACTICE TO DECEIVE
Profiling the current SHOWstudio Shop show Practice to Deceive: Smoke & Mirrors in Fashion, Fine Art and Film, our Gallery Director and Curator Carrie Scott offers a guided tour around the exhibition, explaining the themes and thought-processes behind the selection of objects. From 'the smoking wall' - and iconic imagery from Joseph Szabo, William Klein and Fernand Fonssagrives - through the sculptural mirrored surfaces of work by Dan Graham, Henry Krokatsis and Francois and Bernard Baschet, to an exclusive glimpse at Nick Knight and Ruth Hogben's fashion film of Jo Calderone, showcased in the very space where the short was actually shot. An enticing and inviting look at our latest exhibition, open to the public until 16 July 2011. [more]
CURRENT
IN FASHION, RUTH HOGBEN
Our latest In Fashion interview profiles a talent fast rising in the fashion world - and indeed one at the forefront of the new medium of fashion film - Ruth Hogben. A talent behind an array of films gracing SHOWstudio.com - not least her latest A/W 2011 video collaboration with superstylist and LOVE editor-in-chief Katie Grand, due to launch on site later this season - Hogben sat down with fashion director Alexander Fury to discuss her life, the influences on her work, and her passion for fashion in this exclusive and intimate one-on-one.

Our next In Fashion interview, with fashion designer Walter Van Beirendonck, launches on site later this spring. Click here to view all In Fashion interviews. [more]
FROM THE SHOP
LET SLEEPING DOGS LIE, 2011
With the Royal Wedding just around the corner, we look behind the formalities of archaic royal courts through Jenifer Corker's re-appropriated fire screens. Commissioned especially for Practice to Deceive: Smoke & Mirrors in Fashion, Fine Art and Film, Corker's decorated screens reference a long forgotten tradition. Immaculately embroidered, the screens' function was to protect ladies of the court: ostensibly to shield their prized alabaster complexions from the blush of a fire, but equally to conceal them from the gaze of a stranger while they gossiped about the latest scandals of court. As reference to a long forgotten tradition, Corker's screens both conceal the truth and resist the voyeur making them both literal and figurative smoke screens. [more]
FROM THE ARCHIVE
WHITE WEDDING
With the most talked-about wedding of the century (so far) firmly slated for this Friday, it felt a more-than-appropriate time to glance back at a bridal-themed project from our own archives: White Wedding. The product of a grand collaboration with lingerie giant Agent Provocateur to mark the launch of their bridal range, White Wedding is a groundbreaking exploration in extending a narrative advertising campaign to also create an experimental film series. Responding to a six-part script treatment written by Agent Provocateur founder Joe Corré, Nick Knight and a stellar cast including Kate Moss and artists Jake and Dinos Chapman have created six striking campaign stills that storyboard 'the demise of a bride's "big day" and serialise the unravelling of the religious organisation behind it'.
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Nailed Live Stream Now Over!
Another about turn for our shoot as we move from ethereal wonderment to visceral sensuousness. Our final look sees Isabel and Sara united in the barely punctuated dark by Marian Newman's handiwork - a single interconnecting set of nails, fusing our two models together like conjoined twins. Echoing the cut-work... [more]
Look Four: Prada
We're back from our lunch break and ready to bring you our fourth look: the Carmen Miranda stylings of Prada! Our model Sara looks totally tropical in head-to-toe-to-fox-fur stripes as she brandishes an oh-so-appropriate cigar with just the right dash of Latin panache. The eagle-eyed among you may be able... [more]
More From Look One!
A few more shots from our opening Ungaro number - with cocktail cigarettes by Sobranie. We're live streaming outfit number two, Mary Katrantzou S/S 2011, right now! [more]
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SHOWstudio: Marian Newman, Nick Knight, Versace, Prada, Emanuel Ungaro, Ruth Hogben, Gareth Pugh, Bishi, Practice to Deceive, Katie Grand, Raquel Zimmermann and more

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Newsletter | 20 April 2011
COMING UP
NAILED
Live tomorrow, Thursday 21 April from 10:00 BST, SHOWstudio.com will be putting our finger on the finest of the Spring/Summer 2011 collections, guided by the talent of renowned manicurist Marian Newman. Collaborating with Nick Knight and SHOWstudio.com Fashion Director Alexander Fury, Newman will craft a series of bespoke nail creations informed and inspired by the finest of this season's catwalks. Set against the canvas of the collections themselves - from the Italo-razzmatazz of Versace, to Jazz-age riviera stripes at Prada, to the Parisian frivolity of Emanuel Ungaro - the footage from our live broadcast will be crafted into a series of fashion films by Nick Knight, positioning each set of nail designs as the ultimate accessory to fashion’s favourite vice, and the current theme of SHOWstudio Shop’s latest exhibition, smoking.

We'll be live streaming the entire creative process - with Newman taking questions from an ever-curious public - from 10:00 BST tomorrow morning. Be sure to tune in for this exclusive and truly extraordinary live fashion and beauty shoot. [more]
CURRENT
IN FASHION, RUTH HOGBEN
The next installment of our In Fashion interview series launches today, profiling one of fashion’s brightest stars, filmmaker Ruth Hogben, in an in-depth conversation with Fashion Director Alexander Fury. Having served as Nick Knight’s right hand assistant from 2005 to February of 2009, Hogben's career trajectory has been that of a meteoric rise, her success cemented by the long list of industry elite - Katie Shillingford, Francesca Burns and Gareth Pugh to name a few - with which she now collaborates. Recently, Hogben was awarded the 2009 Jury Prize at the A Shaded View on Fashion Film Festival and was included in the ICA’s Bird Eye View film festival in both 2009 and 2011.

The edited footage of this one-on-one conversation launches today Wednesday 20 April as the next installment in our ongoing and ever-expanding In Fashion series.
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CURRENT
LIVESTUDIO - BISHI
In a riveting performance debuting seven of her new tracks, the final edit of multi-intstrumentalist and DJ Bishi's exclusive LiveStudio performance is now available on SHOWstudio.com.  As the finale performance of our 2010-2011 Florist show, Bishi's psychedelic delivery saw her collaborate with MC Dusty Limits on audio, while five visual artists - Liza Angst, Peter T Breen, The Bardo Lightshow, Morgan O'Donavan and Noriko Okaku - provided a sensational, disco-fantastic series of projections. Should you have missed any of the excitement the first time, edited footage of Bishi is now available in the SHOWstudio.com LiveStudio archive. [more]
CURRENT
PRACTICE TO DECEIVE
The latest exhibition to hold court in the SHOWstudio Shop is Practice to Deceive: Smoke & Mirrors in Fashion, Fine Art and Film. This exhibition approaches the expression 'smoke and mirrors', juxtaposing a literal interpretation through iconic imagery of people smoking and physical mirrored sculptural surfaces, against a backdrop of more figurative expressions of deceit and artifice. Comprised of major works by Francois and Bernard Baschet, William Claxton, Jenifer Corker, Oleg Dou, Brian Dowling, TR Ericcson, Fernand Fonssagrives, Dan Graham, Ruth Hogben, Walter Hugo, Stephen Jones, William Klein, Henry Krokatsis, Nick Knight, Craig McDean, Edward Quinn, Joseph Szabo and Sissel Tolaas, Practice to Deceive has also invited key artists and major fashion designers to 'take up residence’ in our Bruton Place LiveStudio, resulting in one-off garments and art-pieces that will then be added to the show.

Practice to Deceive: Smoke & Mirrors in Fashion, Fine Art and Film is open to the public until 16 July 2011. [more]
FROM THE SHOP
PRISCILLA, 1969
Joseph Szabo is famed for his collection of photographs taken during the 1970’s of adolescence in America - all of which culminate in his two books Teenage and Almost Grown. Featuring in the latter, his most renowned image ‘Priscilla’ captures an unknown young girl with a cigarette casually dangling from her lips. Her innocent youth is somewhat engulfed by her adult disposition. The enduring black and white photograph adorns the album cover of nineties rock band Dinosaur Jr's and is exhibiting in our current show Practice to Deceive: Smoke & Mirrors in Fine Art, Fashion and Film. [more]
FROM THE ARCHIVE
JOIE DE VIVRE
Given that Monday saw Ruth Hogben collaborate with Katie Grand to film our first fashion film editorial of the A/W 2011 season - and tomorrow we capture the finest S/S 2011 Collections in vibrant motion - it feels especially fitting to re-examine Hogben’s Joie de Vivre, a showcase of the wares of SHOWstudio.com favourite Gareth Pugh. Encapsulating the notions of deceit and artifice currently explored in our SHOWstudio Shop's latest exhibition, Practice to Deceive, Joie de Vivre was originally offered up as an editorial exploration of Pugh's A/W 2010 collection, employing the beauty of Brazillian supermodel Raquel Zimmermann, styled by Katie Shillingford and made-up to Joan Crawford-level panstick perfection by Alex Box. In Hogben's directorial hands, the imagery of Pugh’s dark, Deco-tinged collection is transformed into a visual feast akin to the riotous decadence of a Weimar Berlin cabaret act.
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Louis Vuitton Press Day
A quick visit to Bond Street, and Louis Vuitton's press room that showcased not only a selection of Marc Jacobs' fetishised A/W 11 ready-to-wear collection for Vuitton but also some scary/beautiful animals crafted from signature monogram canvases and fixtures. [more]
A/W 2011 in the making!
Here is a shot of model Anais Pouliot on location, grabbed by none other than superstylist Katie Grand who is collaborating with filmmaker Ruth Hogben on our first fashion film editorial of the A/W 2011. Alas, as the old saying goes, that's all folks - for now at least, with the official unveiling of Hogben's latest work to come later in the season and herald our first glimpse at the season to come! [more]
PRACTICE TO DECEIVE: Jo Calderone Film by Nick Knight and Ruth Hogben
Something for the weekend - or indeed any day through until 16 July 2011 - is our exclusive showcase of Nick Knight and Ruth Hogben’s latest collaborative venture, a filmic portrait of model Jo Calderone captured during the course Knight’s shoot for Vogue Hommes Japan. Styled by Nicola Formichetti [more]
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SHOWstudio: Practice to Deceive, Couture 2011, Ming Xi, Bishi, Ruth Hogben, Shona Heath and more

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Newsletter | 14 April 2011
CURRENT
PRACTICE TO DECEIVE
Tonight is the private view of the latest SHOWstudio Shop exhibition, Practice to Deceive: Smoke & Mirrors in Fashion, Fine Art and Film. Approaching the expression ‘smoke and mirrors’ through a conceptual paradigm, Practice to Deceive juxtaposes a literal interpretation through iconic photographs of people smoking and physical mirrored sculptural surfaces against figurative expressions of deceit and artifice, two themes that often find ways to physically manifest in art and fashion. The exhibition includes major works by François and Bernard Baschet, Fernand Fonssagrives, Walter Hugo, William Klein, Nick Knight, Craig McDean, Joseph Szabo, and Sissel Tolaas amongst others. As part of the exhibition, SHOWstudio.com has invited key artists and major fashion designers to ‘take up residence’ in our LiveStudio in Bruton Place and create one-off garments and art-pieces that will then be added to the show.

Practice to Deceive opens to the public on Friday 15 April, running until 16 July 2011.
[more]
CURRENT
MING XI - COUTURE 2011
Inspired by the threads of Asian aesthetics and culture woven throughout the Spring/Summer 2011 haute couture collections, highlights from Nick Knight’s latest shoot for V magazine, starring the knock-out Ming Xi, styled by Jonathan Kaye and featuring garments by Chanel, Gaultier Couture and Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci, have launched on SHOWstudio.com. Taking advantage of a rare opportunity to see these incredible confections up close and personal, Fashion Director Alexander Fury couldn't help but wax metaphorical, bringing us a full detailed analysis of each garment alongside an interview with Ming herself. A unique chance to see fashion's very best, at their best, and a preview of the V magazine editorial spread that hits newsstands on 10 May 2011. [more]
CURRENT
LIVESTUDIO - BISHI
The last hurrah of our 2010-2011 Florist show, the edit of multi-instrumentalist and DJ Bishi’s one-off LiveStudio performance has now launched on site. Pushing the definitions of spectacle to new heights, Bishi created a visual as well as audio feast, aided by kaleidoscopic image projections created in collaboration with five artists, and the worldwide debut of seven new tracks. If you missed any of the action the first time, footage of Bishi is now available for your eyes and ears to feast on in our LiveStudio archive. [more]
COMING UP
IN FASHION, RUTH HOGBEN
Back in February, acclaimed fashion filmmaker Ruth Hogben was the latest fashion creative caught in an exclusive one-on-one as part of our In Fashion interview series. Discussing her interest in fashion - from glamorous relatives and childhood memories through to collaborations with Katie Shillingford, Francesca Burns and Gareth Pugh to name a few - this interview profiles a talent fast-emerging as a leader in the new medium of fashion film.

The edited footage of this in-depth conversation launches Wednesday 20 April as the next installment in our In Fashion series.
FROM THE SHOP
HEAD WITH CIGARETTE, 2008
Custom-crafted in 2008 to grace the Paolo Roversi-shot pages of AnOther magazine, this painstaking papier-mâché head by leading set designer Shona Heath is a precursor to the smoke and mirrors inspiration behind our Practice to Deceive show. With the bust's swanlike neck, sleek chignon and Dietrich-esque spidery eyelashes and arched brows, the cigarette is the perfect stylistic accoutrement to a distinctly Jazz Age visage - then again, isn't smoking an equally iconic component of fashion? Known for her statuesque set-pieces featured in grand shoots for magazines from Vogue to Dazed and Confused, this smaller piece shows Heath’s deft hand and art of statement on a more modest scale. [more]
FROM THE ARCHIVE
FIRE
As the saying goes, ‘where there's smoke, there's fire’ - quite literally in photographic printer and fashion industry right-hand Brian Dowling’s photo-essay documenting the aftermath of an electrical fire that razed his seventy-four year old mother's home in 2000. These hauntingly personal images are complimented by a poignant essay by journalist Paul Hunwick, detailing the traumatic events for both mother and son surrounding the blaze, and the dramatic images themselves are included in our Practice to Deceive show. [more]
LATEST ENTRIES
BLOG
PRIVATE VIEW TONIGHT: PRACTICE TO DECEIVE

Here at SHOWstudio Shop we're finally setting our power tools aside to raise a glass in celebration of the opening of our latest exhibition, Practice to Deceive: Smoke & Mirrors in Fashion, Fine Art and Film.

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Prada press day
Continuing on the press-day trail, not too far away from SHOWstudio HQ, and Prada. Seeing the pieces up close really translates the visual impact these garments have on the runway, and the shock of the new that Miuccia always promises, to pure object desirability. [more]
Victoria Beckham and Theyskens' Theory Press Days

Press day season is well and truly upon us. As I didn't brave the trip to NYC this season, I was especially interested to see two offerings from over the pond: Vitoria Beckham's latest offering, and Olivier Theyskens' first catwalk collection for Theory.

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