SHOWstudio: Gareth Pugh, Joseph Altuzarra, Dolce e Gabbana, Alister Mackie, Giles Deacon, and more

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	Newswire | 29.07.10
CURRENT THE FASHION BODY
For its second week, our new fashion film season The Fashion Body series takes a sexual and slightly unconventional twist. Kicking off with filmmaker Ruth Hogben's kinky focus on brazenly bared buttocks, yesterday we showcased the chest as seen by Alice Hawkins - framed by fashion rather than concealed on a whirlwind U.S. road-trip paying homage to Playboy and Sin City itself, Las Vegas. For the essay portion of this intriguing trip around the corpus humanum, the Sunday Times Style's Fleur Britten has looked to the filmic future of fashion, while today curator, author and fashion historian Alastair O'Neill unpicks the masculine love-hate relationship with the male collar. To round off the week? We venture below the belt for photographer Malcolm Pate's vision of the right calf. Tune in each weekday to SHOWstudio.com for the launch of a new film or essay on the theme The Fashion Body. [more]
CURRENT A/W 2010 - JOIE DE VIVRE
Supermodel Raquel Zimmerman takes centre stage in Joie De Vivre, the latest addition to our fashion film editorial for the A/W 2010 season. Filmmaker Ruth Hogben's most recent collaboration with fashion's much-loved enfant terrible Gareth Pugh sees cabaret-inspired robotic gyrations of the Brazilian bombshell alongside a number of slinky and sleek selections from Pugh's A/W 2010 collection, styled to the extreme by Katie Shillingford. Think Dietrich, think Crawford, think Gothic glamour to the max in this effervescent evocation of A/W 2010. [more]
COMING UP LIVESTUDIO - MILLIE BROWN
Provocative performance artist Millie Brown returns to our Bruton Place Studio on Friday 30 July for an exclusive LiveStudio performance. Inspired by the concepts behind our SHOWstudio Shop Inside/Out show, Brown will be painting a colourful spectrum of vomit across canvas and exploring the synergy between music and performance art alongside opera singers Patricia Hammond and Zita Syme, who will be providing a live soundtrack for the LiveStudio session. Tune in at 11:30 BST for Millie's technicolour dream. [more]
COMING UP A/W 2010 - ENIKO
Fusing together sick beats and slick fashion, model Eniko Mihalik is decked out in the latest from new New York - from Alexander Wang and Altuzarra to Eddie Borgo and Proenza Schouler - in a unique interactive fashion film editorial from image-maker Barnaby Roper and stylist Keegan Singh. Showcasing the best of new and emerging U.S. fashion talent as selected by Singh, Roper offers fashion editorial with a difference - rather than flicking a page, you click a button to select from two-dozen clips of Eniko and ten exclusive soundtracks to hand-craft your very own fashion film edit(orial). We challenge you to experiment with the sound and video clips and create your own track to share with friends via email. Our latest fashion film editorial Eniko launches this Friday 30 July at 18:00 BST / 13:00 EST
COMING UP IN FASHION, JOSEPH ALTUZARRA -LIVE
Next week, we invite New Yorker Joseph Altuzarra to join us in the LiveStudio here at Bruton Place for the latest broadcast of our In Fashion interview series. With his last collection a New York Fashion Week must-see, and the Altuzarra label receiving international plaudits - not least a CFDA award nomination and most recently a position as finalist for the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund. On Wednesday 4 August, the Paris-born, US-based designer will be the latest to take the seat for our In Fashion series, streamed live from 12:30 BST.
CURRENT OBJECT FETISH
Independent spirit and sexuality have also been a core value at Dolce e Gabbana, along with overindulgence in decoration and subtle homage to Domenico and Stefano's Italian heritage. This week in Object Fetish, we delve into the historic and philosophical mysteries surrounding the curvaceous corset featured in the A/W 2010 collection. Adorned down the last square centimetre with jewels, baubles and religious charms, this sumptuous corset is exemplary of the classic Dolce e Gabbana aesthetic. Part-vixen, part-matron, part-religious, part-fetishistic, this undergarment-turned-centrepiece is both a trendy accessory and historically rich fashion relic. [more]
FROM THE SHOP UNDERWEAR, 2007
Traditionally, the male undergarment has failed to evolve any further than the lacklustre Y-front or boxer short. However, in 2007, Alister Mackie and Nick Knight's Boned project challenged this tradition with the use of corsets, lace, silk and other such lavish textiles. Commissioned for AnOther Man magazine, the feminised underwear, often mistaken for women's lingerie, is especially designed to fit a mans contours and silhouette. Our Inside/Out exhibition displays the re-appropriated designs in true Mackie style. The sumptuous underpants are pinned in box frames like delicate artefacts from a historical epoch where masculinity transcended the boundaries of convention. [more]
FROM THE ARCHIVE FASHION PANOPTICON – GILES
London Fashion Week goers were left heartbroken when Giles Deacon relocated his shows across the channel to Paris following his ANDAM award win. But following the much-anticipated confirmation of his appointment to the couture bastion of Emanuel Ungaro is the equally exciting announcement that his eponymous label will return to London Fashion Week for S/S 2011. In celebration of the return of this hot ticket, we look back to our 2003 Fashion Panopticon series, peering into every nook and cranny of Deacon's creative playground. Roam around via our interactive to investigate designs, doodles and moodboards for his sophomore own-label show for S/S 2004. [more]
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SHOWstudio: Rick Owens, Tim Walker, Gareth Pugh, Hermès, Naomi Filmer, and more

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	Newswire | 21.07.10
CURRENT THE FASHION BODY
Our latest fashion film season The Fashion Body launched on Monday, with Nick Knight beginning our whirlwind trip around the human body through a fusion of fashion and motion image. Today, it is the turn of the much-celebrated American avant-garde designer Rick Owens to give us his unique view of his own left foot, while on Friday we showcase the right eye as captured by esteemed photographer Tim Walker. Alongside films, each week we will release a pair of essays commissioned on the theme of The Fashion Body from a range of authors, journalists and critical thinkers. This week sees Professor Christopher Breward of the Victoria and Albert museum, and journalist and lecturer Roger Tredre, who give their viewpoints on the concept of The Fashion Body. Tune in each weekday for the launch of a new film or essay on the theme The Fashion Body on SHOWstudio.com [more]
COMING UP A/W 2010 - JOIE DE VIVRE
Known for his deliciously dark and slightly gothic take on contemporary fashion, Gareth Pugh is frankly the last designer you'd associate with a piece titled Joie De Vivre. But in Ruth Hogben's latest addition to our A/W 2010 fashion film editorial, Pugh is less the focus and more the sole obsession of a piece vibrating with the vivacious movement and infectious energy of a Weimar Berlin cabaret act. Brazillian supermodel Raquel Zimmermann is primped, plucked, panstick-ed and preened into a louche symbol of Art Deco decadence, directed by Hogben, styled by Katie Shillingford and dressed in a selection of Pugh's finest wares. All right Mr. DeMille, she's ready for her close-up! Joie De Vivre launches this Friday at 15:00 BST
CURRENT OBJECT FETISH
First spied by Fashion Director Alexander Fury on the Paris catwalk back in March, this week we finally manage to get our hands on one of next season's most coveted accessories - the Hermès umbrella. Rendered in hyper-luxurious inky-black crocodile and with a miniature Kelly bag strapped to the handle (naturallement!), Jean Paul Gaultier's latest reinvention and reinvigoration of Hermès' heritage was ripe for an analytical unfastening, and of course a sumptuous visual exploration in our latest Object Fetish film. [more]
FROM THE SHOP TOE AND HEEL BALL LENSES, 2007
Naomi Filmer's series Out of the Ordinary brings a redefined meaning to the term 'through the looking glass'. In 2007, London's Victoria and Albert museum exhibited her remarkable collection of ten hand-blown glass balls flawlessly outlining the intricacies of the body. Our current exhibition Inside/Out displays her toe and heel ball lenses: a hollow metal cast of the foot encased by a ball of delicate glass. The transparent orb accommodates the precious body part, which is lined with flesh coloured flocking, giving the viewer a rare chance to really look inside themselves. [more]
FROM THE ARCHIVE BONED
With fashion already leaping ahead and shooting its selections from the latest menswear collections for S/S 2011 - and with stylist Alister Mackie's inventive array of frilly underthings currently adorning the walls of the SHOWstudio Shop - the time seems apt to cast a furtive glance at our Boned project. With designers including Christopher Kane, Marios Schwab and Gareth Pugh reworking men's underwear along the frilled and boned lines of ladies' lingerie, Mackie's selection was shot by Nick Knight with all the classicism of Horst's Mainbocher Corset for AnOther Magazine, the editorial here presented alongside an exclusive fashion film and in-depth essay. [more]
LATEST ENTRIES BLOG
Show and Tell with Rebecca and Mike This afternoon was a treat here at SHOWstudio.com towers: a show and tell session with the wonderful Rebecca and Mike, who dropped by to show us their rather incomparable wares... [more]
Next Interviewee confirmed: Joseph Altuzarra The shortlist has been announced for the 2010 CFDA Vogue Fashion Fund - a hefty $200k prize awarded to the best of the best of new New York fashion talent - and the names include Joseph Altuzarra, coincidentally the next designer scheduled for the SHOWstudio.com In Fashion treatment from yours truly... [more]
Proenza Schouler re-stream is now over The re-stream of our latest In Fashion broadcast with Proenza Schouler is now complete. The on demand edited footage will be on the site shortly! [more]
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SHOWStudio: Fashion Body, Proenza Schouler, Celine A/W 2010, Christopher Kane and more

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	Newswire | 14.07.10
COMING UP THE FASHION BODY
On Monday 19 July 2010, we launch The Fashion Body, a bold and innovative season of fashion film that explores and embraces the union of the body, fashion, and moving image. Nick Knight challenged a selection of fashion's elite to create a unique film around the unifying theme of The Fashion Body. The brief was simple - to devise a short film focused on an individual section of the body, using items from the latest fashion collections to adorn it. Over thirty photographers, models, designers, stylists and filmmakers - including Lady Gaga, Lily Cole, Rick Owens and Craig McDean - have contributed to this celebration of the human form, each creating an exclusive film. Over summer 2010, SHOWstudio.com is exclusively showcasing this unique fashion film series, launching films each Monday, Wednesday and Friday. Interspersed amongst the films will be essays from a range of leading authors, journalists and academics specially commissioned around the theme of The Fashion Body. Envisaged from the start as an installation - a complete and whole fashion body - the individual works not only function as distinct cinematic and literary entities, but also as part of a larger panorama of fashion-focused moving image. Tune in on Monday morning for the first film of The Fashion Body.
CURRENT PROENZA SCHOULER RE-STREAMING
The live stream of our In Fashion interview with Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough of Proenza Schouler was rudely interrupted yesterday by an unfortunate Internet outage in Mayfair. We apologise to anyone who experienced technical difficulties - and to make amends we will re-stream the unedited interview with this leading design duo once again this afternoon from 16:45 BST. [more]
CURRENT A/W 2010 - PERFECT
Since she was appointed creative director at Celine in 2008, Phoebe Philo has invigorated the erstwhile-dusty designer label to become one of the most sought-after brands on the market. Our first fashion film editorial of the A/W 2010 season, Perfect celebrates the utmost precision of craft and perfection of design in Philo's latest influential offerings for Celine A/W 2010. Ruth Hogben's fashion film draws unlikely parallels between seventeenth-century Dutch paintings, 1950's Irving Penn and the New Minimalism gripping fashion, of which Philo is undoubtedly the key instigator. [more]
CURRENT OBJECT FETISH
Christopher Kane has never been one to shy away from the challenge of turning cheap clichés into chic couture. The Women's Institute, juvenile delinquents and Priscilla Presley were among some of Kane's eclectic mix of inspirations for his A/W 2010 collection, and the result was an awe-inspiring, Elvis-evoking mix of pretty and pleather, primroses and prim. Our pick for this week's Object Fetish is a mishmash of tautly-tailored groupie leather and lace, speckled with hordes colourful jewels - an exuberant example of Kane's signature high-low mix. [more]
FROM THE SHOP SEETHE, 2010
Ariana Page Russell has gone beyond the boundaries of self-mutilation by using her skin condition, dermographica, to embellish her body as you would a canvas. Remarkable photographs of Russell's skin sensitivity vary over her two series, Dressing and Save Face, both of which illustrate the scarlet and pink hues of patterns constructed onto the planes of her body. Made either by a simple scratch or printed temporary tattoos from scanned skin images, they all exemplify an unheard body art. An example from each series - titled Sugarplum and Seethe - feature in our Inside/Out exhibition, which undoubtedly bring the human body inner workings to the surface. [more]
LATEST ENTRIES BLOG
Shooting, shooting... shot! Our Shady Characters shoot is now complete - and for an editorial focussed all around silhouette, what better point to end on than this slighty eerie monochrome outline of model Tafari captured by Nick Knight, striking a pose in an outfit redolent of the quintessential Victorian dandy thanks to the ever-inventive hand of Simon Foxton... [more]
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SHOWstudio: Celine A/W 2010, Simon Foxton, Alexander McQueen, Proenza Schouler interview, Shaun Leane and more...

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	Newswire | 07.07.10
COMING UP A/W 2010 - PERFECT
Launching this Friday 9 July, Perfect is the first of our new fashion film editorials exploring the key movements and moods of the A/W 2010 collections. To open the season, we focus entirely on the perfection of Phoebe Philo's latest offerings for Celine, a label that has emerged from dusty anonymity to become one of the most important and influential labels on the contemporary fashion landscape. With the astute eye of filmmaker Ruth Hogben behind the lens and Katie Shillingford taking charge of the precise, concise collection itself, Perfect manages to simultaneously evoke the eerie idealism of seventeenth-century Dutch still-life paintings, the flawless vision of Irving Penn's fifties editorials, and the utterly contemporary feel of New Minimalism gripping fashion today. Find out when new fashion films launch by following the SHOWstudio Twitter feed at twitter.com/showstudio
CURRENT LIVESTUDIO - SHADY CHARACTERS
The second day of Nick Knight and Simon Foxton's latest editorial shoot for i-D magazine is currently unfolding in our LiveStudio, and our cameras are standing by to broadcast the models' every twist and turn. Simon has shaved heads, padded jackets and strapped up fashions from Yves Saint Laurent, Vivienne Westwood and Burberry Prorsum over the past two days, transforming the human body for a shoot centred around light, shadow and slightly menacing silhouettes. Tune in now for the final few hours of today's live stream. [more]
CURRENT OBJECT FETISH
It seems we're moving from Object Fetish into objet d'art for our latest analysis of A/W 2010, via these ornate, embellished and certainly one-off creations from the final collection of Alexander McQueen. Shoes, it seems, only in name, these carved and curlicued works of footwear art were the suitably exuberant finishing touch to a collection inspired by the richest of Renaissance masterpieces - and hence painstakingly decorated from head to toe. [more]
COMING UP IN FASHION, PROENZA SCHOULER
During their whirlwind stopover in London next Tuesday 13 July, Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough of New York label Proenza Schouler speak exclusively to our Fashion Director Alexander Fury in the latest addition to our In Fashion series. We will be streaming the interview live from 16:45 BST as the design duo discuss their inspirations, influences and illustrious career to date.
FROM THE SHOP SPINE CUFF, 2010
The skeleton, perhaps the rawest human form, has served as muse to numerous fashion houses over the years, most recently Riccardo Tisci's latest 'Bone Collector' Haute Couture collection for Givenchy and DSquared2’s macabre spinal-heel shoes. It’s no surprise then that celebrated jeweller Shaun Leane also chose to look internally for inspiration to design and produce a cuff especially for our Inside/Out exhibition. Encasing the wrist, Leane’s solid silver skeletal formation is lined in hardy leather and bears an unmistakable resemblance to a human spinal cord. Split into four separate ‘veterbrae’, this protruding piece takes wearing something inside out to the next level, literally. [more]
FROM THE ARCHIVE WHAT ARE YOU LOOKING AT?
With Simon Foxton and Nick Knight shooting quite literally above our heads in the LiveStudio on the final day of our 'Shady Characters' shoot, one cannot help but cast one's mind back to What Are You Looking at, Foxton and Knight's collaboration for the August 2006 'Health of the Nation' issue of i-D. Electing to create a photographic story about the 'brutalising city', in addition to shooting their own editorial, Foxton and Knight invited SHOWstudio viewers to submit their own unique photographic interpretations of a brief laid out in video and handwritten notes, showcasing the best twenty on the site. [more]
LATEST ENTRIES BLOG
Shady Characters - Day 2 now broadcasting Here are a few shots captured on set yesterday by Nick Knight, ripe for re-jigging and reworking (good old-fashioned scissors and sellotape at the ready!) to form the basis of the editorial shoot thusfar... [more]
Final Vogue Hommes Japan Images Released We can now reveal the final advance image from last Friday's Vogue Hommes Japan editorial story. Our LiveStudio project page, updated throughout the week, now features a gallery of nine exclusive images snapped live on the set during the course of the shoot... [more]
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