SHOWstudio: Rei Nadal, Sarah Lucas, Betony Vernon, Kim McCarty, Inge Jacobsen, Una Burke, Marianne Maric, Carine Roitfeld, Anna Trevelyan, Ruth Hogben, Maison Martin Margiela, Amanda Harlech and more...

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Newsletter | 29 March 2012
CURRENT
FASHION FETISH

The second instalment of our Fashion Fetish season - examining a female viewpoint on the relationship between clothes and fetishism - launches on Monday 2 April 2012. Twisting away from fashion film, artist Rei Nadal offers a unique take on the series' theme by curating the SHOWstudio Tumblr for a one-week period. Her work juxtaposes found imagery with phrases and self-portraits - postmodern poetry for the visual age - fuelled in this instance by a selection of objects, cosmetics and fashion items delivered daily to her home. Including esoteric items alongside fashion pieces from world-renowned designers, these selections are merely propositions rather than impositions on Nadal's work: she can choose to incorporate these into her work or not according to her creative urges with each daily selection available for twenty-four hours only (09:00 CET - 09:00 CET). Nadal will also interact with the viewing audience via the 'Ask' feature on Tumblr. Tune in from Monday to see the concept unfold.

[more]
CURRENT
SELLING SEX

SHOWstudio Shop’s latest exhibition Selling Sex opened Thursday evening at 1-9 Bruton Place. Though Selling Sex is, after all, the world’s oldest profession, this exhibition shies away from the cliched images of male-expressed female sexuality found everywhere from prostitution to pornography to fashion photography, exploring the feminine nude from an entirely female perspective. Born from the exasperation that despite performing two-thirds of the world's work and producing half of its food, women only earn 10% of overall global income and own 1% of all property, SHOWstudio Shop hosts work from all-female photographers, filmmakers, sculptors, designers, jewellers and artists including Sarah Lucas, Betony Vernon, Kim McCarty and Inge Jacobsen. Confronted by a vision of women's bodies freed from the voyeuristic overtones of a male dominated art world, guests at last weeks opening were greeted by Una Burke's RE.TREAT #7 and #5; a leather and brass hanging suit sculpted into a position of submission and worship. Our opening night was expertly illuminated by French photographer and stylist Marianne Maric's Lamp Girl, wearing a lampshade dress lit from within by a bulb turned on and off by the pull of a cord and the whims of our guests. Playful and provocative, Selling Sex gives a unique platform to female voices relishing their sexuality but refusing to be solely defined by gender.

Selling Sex is at SHOWstudio Shop, 1-9 Bruton Place until 1 June 2012.

[more]
CURRENT
BEHIND THE SEAMS: SUGAR AND SPICE

When does sweetness become sickly? Furthermore, when does it become sick? With a Spring/Summer 2012 season awash in pastels and marzipan-hued femininity from designers as diverse as Marc Jacobs, Giles Deacon, Miuccia Prada and Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci, our latest Behind The Seams article critiques the pastels and peplums, the ruffles and flounces, and the vision of woman proposed. Examining the intricacies of the current fashion world, exploring both the concepts behind and the messages given off by this new trend for sickly sweet vulnerability, fashion director Alexander Fury questions exactly what we'll end up with after the sugar rush subsides. 

[more]
CURRENT
FASHION MIX

Stylists have ruled supreme in the SHOWstudio DJ booth this week. On Monday the ever irreverent Carine Roitfeld offered up her favourite tracks. Mimicking her effortless french chic meets rock chick look Roitfeld interspersed classic french sounds from Serge Gainsbourg with rebellious beats from Sid Vicious and David Bowie - the perfect tribute to her famous sartorial panache. This Friday we leave Paris for London, with a mix from Brit stylist Anna Trevelyan. The creative consultant eschews current hits or new underground sounds, instead opting for sounds straight from the nightclub dance-floor. With everything from Gala's nineties anthem Freed from Desire to Ibiza classic Every Time We Touch by Cascada, you can look forward to the ideal accompaniment to a Friday night in London.

[more]
FROM THE SHOP
TILT, 2010

Kim McCarty's paintings of fabricated figures and elements of nature are subtle, translucent and absolutely mesmerizing. Young bodies emerge from washes of paint and vulnerable subjects stand stoically in puddles of colour. McCarty uses a wet in wet technique that allows pigments to run into one another and form spontaneous pools of colour combinations, the process of her rapidly created works are analogous to the flash of time that is portrayed in the work. As Hammer Museum Curator Claudine Isé notes, McCarty's subjects 'appear to be fading away before our eyes.' Kim McCarty's piece, Tilt, sexualises the depicted characteristic nymphet through the liquidity of her artistic process. The innocent female body is brought to life by the fluidity of the brushstroke and McCarty's language of colour.

[more]
FROM THE ARCHIVE
MAKE UP YOUR MIND

Selling Sex and Fashion Fetish - Nick Knight and Ruth Hogben's 2008 fashion film Make Up Your Mind could slot neatly into either of those categories. Undoubtedly a fetish object - and the most fashionable anti-fashion statement for some time - Maison Martin Margiela's 'Wig-Coat' from the house's Spring/Summer 2009 'retrospective' collection is the star of this oddly seductive and strangely surreal film short, also analysed in text.

[more]
LATEST ENTRIES
BLOG
SHOWstudio Shop: New exhibition opens at SHOWstudio Shop

Considering that SHOWstudio's Bruton Place headquarters is based in a former brothel (albeit a nineteenth-century brothel latterly home to Maison Martin Margiela), it's rather appropriate that the latest SHOWstudio Shop exhibition goes under the title Selling Sex.

[more]
Neal Bryant: SHOWstudio Tech Updates - Instagram - Follow Nick Knight

Instagram is an app for iOS that allows users to quickly take pictures, add a filter and share with friends. It is a wonderfully simple app to use and is a quick way of sharing beautiful imagery.

[more]
Amanda Harlech: Ghost love

Ghost love - my fetish.

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SHOWstudio: Ruth Hogben, Karlie Kloss, Kim McCarty, Sarah Lucas, Christiana Soulou, Liz Cohen, Erin O'Connor, Marianne Maric, Amanda Harlech, Aimee Mullins and more...

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Newsletter | 22 March 2012
CURRENT
FASHION FETISH
Alongside the 2012 SHOWstudio Shop exhibition Selling Sex, SHOWstudio launches a unique project under the provocative title Fashion Fetish. This series of fashion films, performances and multi-media pieces, makes a comment on the fusion of fashion with fetish, a contentious and provocative subject. One piece will be released each week for the duration of the Selling Sex exhibition from 22 March - 1 June 2012. As with the entirely female roster of artists included in Selling Sex, Fashion Fetish hands the power to female fashion professionals, asking them to address the concept of fetish and examine their individual visions of women and their relationship with appearance, adornment and clothing. This project offers a clear field, a blank canvas and an open mind to a selection of some of the most important women working in fashion today, inviting them to present their own interpretation of the abstract notion of Fashion Fetish. To begin the project, acclaimed fashion filmmaker Ruth Hogben has created a vibrant new fashion film starring modern supermodel Karlie Kloss and titled Fuck Me, presenting the notion of a woman exploring different aspects of her character and narcissistic love. In Hogben's own words, 'It explores a woman's different facets and how she can choose to be a different character on a whim. Her fetish is herself.' Tune in each week to see a new representation of the female form by fashion greats, including the likes of Lady Amanda Harlech and Daphne Guinness, Lily Donaldson, Liberty Ross, Rei Nadal and Dasha Zhukova of Garage magazine. [more]
CURRENT
SELLING SEX
This week SHOWstudio Shop unveils its pioneering new exhibition - Selling Sex. Part artistic display, part call to action, the exhibition takes issue with the continued male domination of the arts by featuring a talented cast of all female artists, each examining their perspectives on sex, gender, and the female nude. Opening to the public on Friday 23 March 2012, Selling Sex was born from an interest in, and objection to, continued female oppression and marginalization, a subject too often ignored amidst a climate where many believe that equality between the sexes has already been achieved. Few remember, or care to acknowledge, that even today the Louvre still has no female artists in their collection of over 35,000 artworks and as of 1989 only 5% of all the artists in the Metropolitan Museum of Art's collection in 1989 were women. There remain only three industries in which women earn more money than men - pornography, prostitution and modelling. We live in a society where man's vision of the world continues to dominate. Selling Sex turns this 'convention' on its head through the work of dynamic female creatives, including Kim McCarty, Sarah Lucas, Christiana Soulou and Liz Cohen. The exhibition hopes to prompt a discussion, and a greater respect, for the female perspective - allowing women to reclaim their sexuality and bodies beyond the restrictions of the voyeuristic male gaze. The exhibition questions: Is an image of a nude woman empowered in the hand's of a female artist? Does it resist traditionally-constructed gender roles? Or, do we see yet more examples of the female constantly diverting her own eye, facilitating her status as the object to be looked at versus ever being the subject doing the looking? Visit Selling Sex at Bruton Place from Friday to join the debate.

Selling Sex opens at SHOWstudio Shop, 1-9 Bruton Place W1 on Friday 23 March 2012. [more]
COMING UP
COLLECTIONS - ROUND-UP REPORTS
With fashion season well and truly over, and fashion editors and models tucked up at home nursing their eyes, feet and livers, SHOWstudio takes a much-needed step back, offering a fresh perspective on each fashion week via capital-by-capital Collections round-up reports. Capital offering, or capital punishment - that truly is the question. In a series of in-depth summaries of the action in New York, London, Milan and Paris, SHOWstudio fashion director Alexander Fury unpicks all the action in a season of seismic sartorial upheavals. Check back this week for round-ups from each capital, or make up your own mind on the season's winners and losers by examining our live reports and catwalk galleries from the NOWFASHION.com team.
CURRENT
FASHION MIX
Fittingly, given the arrival of Selling Sex and Fashion Fetish, two endeavours that celebrate the work of female creatives and visionaries, this week's additions to Fashion Mix come from two females at the forefront of British fashion. On Monday model extraordinaire Erin O'Connor opened up her playlist to SHOWstudio, offering a selection full of girl power with tracks from the likes of PJ Harvey, Florence and the Machine and Peaches. Friday will see another fearsome fashion female play DJ, as acclaimed filmmaker Ruth Hogben takes to the SHOWstudio decks. Perfectly timed with the release of her latest fashion film Fuck Me - seeing Karlie Kloss explore facets of her personality and various sexual guises to open begin our Fashion Fetish programming season - Hogben's musical mix also has many diverse faces. There's something for everyone ranging from Slum Village's hip hop to The Beatles' iconic pop to Lauryn Hill's soulful vocals. Two very different mixes from two unique fashion females! [more]
FROM THE SHOP
LASCIVE, FROM THE 'LAMP GIRL' SERIES, 2012
French artist Marianne Maric's 'lamp-girls' imagery was initially conceived as a reflection of the woman as objectified the media, but gradually ascending to a state of consciousness. Her photographic illustration, Lascive, captures a broader vision: the lamp-dress costume was worn by a 'living' model posed on top of a white rotating base in a dark room. The public had the choice to turn on or off the lamp, the dress, the girl, the room, employing the chance to 'immortalise' a moment when a woman became a simple household appliance. By perceiving the body as wonderful and fascinating architecture, Maric's work encompasses a tridimensional, sculptural approach to the female body. Sexy and seductive, Lascive illuminates Maric's desired portrayal of the female form. The lamp-dress costume from Maric's Lascive, will be brought to life by a live-model at the private view of Selling Sex on Thursday 22 March 2012. [more]
FROM THE ARCHIVE
EXPERIMENTS IN ADVERTISING
Revamped and relaunched on a redesigned SHOWstudio, Experiments In Advertising showcases the work of visionary twentieth century image-maker Erwin Blumenfeld. A unique opportunity to see the undiscovered, historic film footage of one of the most influential photographers of all time, this project examines both Blumenfeld's life and work in intimate detail. Three fashion film edits by SHOWstudio, created in collaboration with filmmaker Adam Mufti and sound designer Olivier Alary, shed light on Blumenfeld's ground-breaking experiments with fusing motion image and fashion. The raw footage contained within these film edits is also presented in three thematic galleries: 'Advertising & Layout', 'Surrealism & Process' and 'Abstraction & Distortion', alongside an essay by curator, journalist and former SHOWstudio Editor in Chief Penny Martin and illustrated chronology of Blumenfeld's life and career. An exclusive interview with his son, writer Yorick Blumenfeld, completes this in-depth examination. [more]
LATEST ENTRIES
BLOG
Neal Bryant: Aerial Photography - OMCOPTER - Flying RED Epic SHOWstudio Tech Update
There have been several attempts at attaching cameras to remote controlled helicopters over the past couple of years. This experimentation has resulted in the mixture of success, and has often been the end of many cameras and RC helicopters.
[more]
Amanda Harlech: Dawn...
Dawn. I am off to Tokyo. Even if I am happy to spend time in Tokyo, even if I want to see the cherry blossom and the conjuror's magic bar, I panic all night - heart beating in my ear. So much of me wants to stay and write and make my maps. Difficult to leave on this pristine morning with the frost still white on the grass and the crescent moon low and pink on the horizon. [more]
In Fashion, Aimee Mullins - live broadcast over
Our In Fashion interview with Aimee Mullins - discussing her athletic exploits, fashion career, starring role in Cremaster 3 and the process of storytelling in all three - is now complete. The edit of her hour-long conversation with SHOWstudio's Alexander Fury will be online shortly.
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SHOWstudio: Kate Tempest, Diplo, Nicola Formichetti, Aimee Mullins, Void of Course, Christopher Kane, Junya Watanabe and more...

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Newsletter | 15 March 2012
CURRENT
EXPRESS YOURSELF
SHOWstudio debuts a brand new film, a music video by Grammy-nominated American DJ, producer, and songwriter Diplo. Shot on location in New Orleans, this short accompanies the lead track - Express Yourself - from Diplo's forthcoming Mad Decent EP, coinciding with the release of his new book 128 Beats Per Minute - Diplo's Visual Guide To Music, Culture And Everything In Between. Featuring bounce artist Nicky Da B and previous SHOWstudio collaborator Quack, the video's eye-catching visuals are the perfect accompaniment to the uplifting, dance-inducing sounds. Directed by @LILINTERNET for KarmaloopTV, with cinematography by Shomi Patwary and styling by @LILGOVERNMENT, the video is now available to view on SHOWstudio. [more]
COMING UP
SELLING SEX
The next SHOWstudio Shop exhibition opens to the public on Friday 23 March 2012. Titled provocatively - and philosophically - Selling Sex, this exhibition features only female artists and examines their unique relationships to sex and the female nude. We like to believe today that the war of the sexes is less a battle and more sophisticated dialogue. However, there remain only three industries in which women earn more money than men - pornography, prostitution and modelling. What does that tell us? That the majority of images we see of women are created by men. And that we live in a society where man's vision of the world continues to dominate. Selling Sex therefore decides to turn this 'convention' on its head, to offer an exhibition made up exclusively of women artists - including Kim Mccarthy, Sarah Lucas, Christiana Soulou and Liz Cohen - looking at sex and nudity, in effect examining a woman's version of a woman. Does it differ from a man’s? Is an image of a nude woman empowered in the hand's of a female artist? Does it resist traditionally-constructed gender roles? Does it mock a voyeuristic male gaze? Or, do we see yet more examples of the female constantly diverting her own eye, facilitating her status as the object to be looked at versus ever being the subject doing the looking? Does this objectification play out in the female subject, for the woman artist, even today?

Selling Sex
opens at SHOWstudio Shop, 1-9 Bruton Place W1 on Friday 23 March 2012
[more]
COMING UP
IN FASHION, AIMEE MULLINS
Actress, model, athlete - one of People's fifty most beautiful people in the world, and one of the 'Greatest American Women of the Twentieth Century'. Those are just some of the titles accorded to Aimee Mullins, the latest addition to our In Fashion interview series. On Saturday 17 March 2012 from 12:30 GMT, we will broadcast Mullins live in conversation with SHOWstudio fashion director Alexander Fury, examining her unique life in fashion. Tune in for this one-on-one real-time and unedited.
CURRENT
IN YOUR FACE: MUSIC - KATE TEMPEST
Those of you who missed the live stream of Kate Tempest's inspirational poetry and rap performance earlier this month can now enjoy her set via our exclusive on-demand footage as part of the In Your Face: Music series. Tempest's lyrical offerings follow in the footsteps of Gary Numan, Cerebral Ballzy, o F F Love, Vula, and Ladyhawke, all of whom have allowed SHOWstudio a unique glimpse of their musical talent. The film of Tempest's performance arrives in sync with the tour of her first play Wasted as well as the release of her debut album Balance and poetry book Everything Speaks in its Own Way.
[more]
CURRENT
FASHION MIX
Designers have ruled supreme this week on Fashion Mix, with Mugler Creative Director Nicola Formichetti playing DJ on Monday, followed by London-based design duo Void of Course who will offer up their tracks on Friday. Both mixes are full of surprises. Given his reputation as the embodiment of the sartorial zeitgeist Formichetti's mix shockingly shuns popular chart hits, opting instead for Philip Glass's ever-minimal thirties compositions. Similarly you would be forgiven for presuming that Chris Sutton and Sean-Anthony Moran of Void of Course would opt for dark, provocative tunes to match the sinister nature of some of their creations. But, instead the pair offer up a selection worthy of the cheesiest nightclub, including camp classics from the likes of Cyndi Lauper and Celine Dion. Tune into Fashion Mix this week to get a unique and unpredictable view into their musical minds.
[more]
CURRENT
THE NEW FACES
Examining the modern-day Mod mode and its roots in sixties soul, SHOWstudio plays host to an exciting new film by photographer and filmmaker Dean Chalkley, The New Faces. An unashamedly retro film short, The New Faces focuses on the sartorial passion and commitment of young British Mods following in the footsteps of Chalkey's acclaimed 2010 photographic study of eight young Mods, bound together by their shared passions for smart dressing, rare soul music, socialising and dancing. This film-version captures Mod in motion - a dynamic visual experience and engaging contemporary documentary, unpicking the perfect seams of this continually-influential youth cult. Perfect viewing for all those who are nostalgic for the swinging sixties. [more]
FROM THE SHOP
PRISCILLA, 1969
The genesis of his Autumn/Winter 2012 collection had one clear focal point for acclaimed British designer Christopher Kane; 'It all started with a Joseph Szabo image'. Arguably Szabo’s most iconic and inspiring image, Priscilla flirts with innocence and exploitation on the very brink of adulthood. Beginning as a Long Island high-school teacher Joseph Szabo spent 25 years documenting the teenagers and children around him as they slipped from adolescence to maturity. Approaching each subject without the judgement of peer or parent Szabo’s series remains an honest exploration of budding sexuality, the aesthetics of rebellion, the armour of clothing and adolescent anonymity. 
[more]
FROM THE ARCHIVE
DESIGN_DOWNLOAD: JUNYA WATANABE
To celebrate the end of another stellar fashion season, pay homage to one of Paris Fashion Week's most anticipated designers, Fukushima-born Junya Watanabe. Whilst the tailored suit may have been the central vision at his most recent collection, his Design_Download goes old-school with a sweet full-skirted dress straight from his Autumn/Winter 2005 catwalk. Watanabe's pattern - the fifth original offering in our Design_Download series - fuses the traditions of French couture with a decidedly twenty-first century subversive streak. Download the pattern yourself or visit our submission's gallery to celebrate the work of this avant-garde stalwart. [more]
LATEST ENTRIES
BLOG
Neal Bryant: Revealing the Technical Side of SHOWstudio
Technology has consistently been a key component within SHOWstudio projects and the desire to utilise it in innovative and exciting ways has helped to shape us into the site that we are today. As an attempt to share this passion with our users we will now be sharing an increased insight into the technological processes that we employ behind the camera.
[more]
Amanda Harlech: Spontaneous combustion...

Sponateous combustion - fire at the Ritz. I am glad I had fled Paris the day before!

[more]
SHOWstudio Shop: International Women's Day: An all female cast of artists
Each year around the world, International Women's Day is celebrated on
March the 8th. While not so much acknowledged in the UK, for many 
countries it is an official holiday, an occasion to honour and praise 
women for their accomplishments. Thousands of events occur to mark the
 economic, political and social achievements of women.
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